Old grape vine in Rioja, Spain

The tiny, precious hands of the little girl were shaking as she held on to the trunk of a baby Tempranillo grape vine while her grandmother pushed dirt into the hole where the young vine was being held so they could plant this vine together, as for many generations, it has been passed on from grandmother to granddaughter. The little girl was always in awe of her grandmother’s beautiful hands, which were strong yet gentle, depending on whether she was laboring in the vineyards or stroking her granddaughter’s hair. She hoped that one day she could have such hands, the hands of a superhero, as there was no one else as amazing as her grandma.

Old vine in black and white

In 1882, the wine region of Rioja, Spain, enjoyed a boom in wine sales as French producers were buying the wines of Rioja to help supplement their own demand, as many of their vineyards had been destroyed by the pest, phylloxera. So, the multi-generational grape growers in Rioja planted more vines of their cherished native Tempranillo red grape variety. It was a very exciting time; the grandmother told her precious little grandchild that the incredible vineyards of their people were finally receiving the glory they deserved and that her granddaughter would have a much better life that would be unimaginable, even to her grandmother.

By 1893, phylloxera had made its way down to Rioja a few years earlier and this pest started to feed on the roots of locals’ beloved Tempranillo grape vines, where it would either kill or stunt the growth of some of the vines. It seemed that the hope for the region had plummeted overnight and the grandmother passed away from the intense stress, leaving her 18-year-old granddaughter alone as the sole guardian trying to protect their small plots of vines as her parents wanted to rip out the vines so they could plant grain instead. With tears running down her face, she begged her mother not to pull out the one vine she had planted with her grandmother but in the end, it was torn out of the ground, destroying the most precious memory she had of her childhood with her hero. A local young man who had been courting this 18-year-old lady for years saw his opportunity to comfort her. He asked her to marry him and to move to Madrid for better opportunities. Overwhelmed with grief and the great disappointment of her parents killing something so precious, she went to Madrid with this young man. She married him, feeling at that moment that she would never return home again.

During this time, a man named Ramón Bilbao from a small town called Etxebarri in northern Spain, around 60 miles north of Haro—the main town of Rioja—moved to Haro to start his own business. He opened a grain warehouse as well as planted vines in 1914, which was a gamble considering that something else, like the devastation of phylloxera, could happen again in the vineyards.

Entry into Ramón Bilbao estate

Unfortunately, in 1929, five years after the winery, Bodega Ramón Bilbao, opened, Ramón passed away, leaving his son Enrique to fulfill his dream, which he did with Bodega Ramón Bilbao becoming a very successful wine producer in Rioja, celebrating their 100th anniversary this year. Not only do they own their own vineyards but they have had a long-term partnership with multi-generational grape growers in the area to expand their sourcing of grapes from a wide range of small plots that include Tempranillo grape vines that are 80 to over 90 years old. No other wine showcases that beautiful partnership as does their wine, Mirto.

Harvesting the grape bunches by hand

The first vintage of Mirto was in 1999, when the technical and general director, Rodolfo Bastida, joined Bodega Ramón Bilbao. He had been walking through the vineyards with a local grower in the sub-region of Rioja Alta, discussing the 1999 vintage, and the grower said to him, “Año de mirto año de vino,” which translates into English, “year of myrtle, year of wine.” Then he pointed to all the myrtle plants growing on the edge of the plot. It is a local expression that means thriving myrtle plants are an excellent sign for the vines and when the myrtle is great, the wine will be great. So Rodolfo decided to make a 100% Tempranillo wine sourced from multiple old vine plots and call it Mirto and the 1999 Mirto was a lovely wine out of the gates and after many years of cellaring, still impresses.

Mirto is just one of the projects that Rodolfo is spearheading as Ramón Bilbao founded a winery in 2019 called Lalomba (translating to hill), which is devoted to the exploration of a single vineyard estate called Lalinde which is located on a hill in the most eastern sub-region named Rioja Oriental. A section of the vineyard makes an ultra-premium rosé wine that is a field blend of the local red Garnacha grape and the white Viura grape made from vines that are almost half a century old. It makes a concentrated rosé wine with lots of freshness and minerality that improves with age.

Rodolfo Bastida

Rodolfo, a Rioja native and winemaking heir, spends most of his time in the vineyards, reminiscent of the old-world winemakers in the 1800s. As the region industrialized winemaking, his grandfather spent his days in the lab ensuring the viability of their product. His father balanced these worlds, spending time both in the lab and vineyards. Today, Rodolfo works among Rioja’s rich history, personally tending to the ancient vines that are their prized possession.

Years after a young woman left Rioja in the late 1800s, she finally wrote a letter home through a friend, announcing her intention to visit with her daughter and granddaughter. By 1938, death and war had left them alone, and they were returning to their roots. At the family vineyard in Rioja, her parents had begun replanting.

The stoic greeting from her mother was a stark reminder of the years she’d lost. Wordlessly, she followed her mother out to the waiting vineyard, her daughter and granddaughter trailing behind. As her mother dug a hole for a new vine, the silence was thick. But as the earth was pushed back in around the vine, each generation of women adding to the effort, the past was left behind. The gesture was more potent in its silence, with no need for stated forgiveness.

This notion of honoring a lineage, contemplating the history rooted in the vineyards, guides Rodolfo in his winemaking for Bodega Ramón Bilbao. He carries their stories in every walk through the vineyard, crafting wines that pay homage to his heritage.

Lineup of Ramón Bilbao Mirto wines

Lalomba by Ramón Bilbao

2017 Lalomba rosé wine by Ramón Bilbao

2017 Lalomba, Finca Lalinde, Monte Yerga, Rioja Oriental, Rioja, Spain: A blend of 90% Garnacha and 10% Viura from the single vineyard estate named Lalinde. A stunning rosé with a pale pink color with highlights of copper with grapefruit and lemon zest aromas with creamy lemon meringue and candied violet flavors on the palate with bright acidity and intense minerality.

2022 Lalomba, Finca Lalinde, Monte Yerga, Rioja Oriental, Rioja, Spain: A blend of 90% Garnacha and 10% Viura from the single vineyard estate named Lalinde situated on a hillside on the Yerga mountain range. This fascinating rosé has smoky mineral characteristics and a bouquet of wildflowers on the nose accompanied by delicious mixed berries and juicy white peaches, ending with a refreshing finish with undertones of damp river stones.

Mirto by Ramón Bilbao

1999 Ramón Bilbao Villalba, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. Originating from plots in the village of Villalba close to the town of Haro with matured vines around 70 years old. The nose presents multiple facets with smoldering cigar, fresh tobacco leaf, a hint of bacon fat and splintered earth, rich in blackberry flavors intermingled with exotic spice, and very fine tannins that gently swipe the palate.

2006 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Villalba, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. Sourced from plots in the village of Villalba close to the town of Haro with matured vines around 80 years old. The nose boasts splendid fruit aromas with whiffs of licorice and fresh herbs, it flaunts fleshy black cherry fruit flavors within a broad body.

2010 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Ábalos, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. It originates from plots in the village of Ábalos close to the town of Haro with ancient vines approximately 80 years old. The tantalizing notes of espresso and cocoa nibs lure in with its delightful aromas, opulent texture, ample fruit flavors, and intricate cigar boxes and tar notes.

2016 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Cuzcurrita, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. It comes from plots in the village of Cuzcurrita near the town of Haro with old vines over 90 years old. A captivating bouquet of violets on the nose with delicious blueberry tart flavors on the palate accompanied by very silky tannins that are neatly sculpted and offers a long, tasty finish.