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The Uncertain Future of the US Wine Industry: Beyond California Boomers

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All the growth in American production is now in other states. Maybe the key to counteracting the industry’s slump is there too.

Wineries need to be closer to where consumers live.

A pleasant way to spend a few minutes (or hours if you’re deeply interested) is to check out the American Viticultural Area Map Explorer hosted by the Treasury Department’s Alcohol and Tobacco Trade and Tax Bureau, aka the TTB. The most dense congregation of these official wine regions — the more relaxed next of kin of France’s appellations d’origine contrôlée — are unsurprisingly located in California, which also boasts the most iconic one, the Napa Valley American Viticultural Area. However, most other states are starting to have them too.

The biggest appears to be the Ozark Mountains AVA, which covers about 55,000 square miles (142,000 square kilometers) in Arkansas, Missouri and Oklahoma; the smallest is reportedly the Cole Ranch AVA in California’s Mendocino County, which is less than a quarter of a square mile and is owned in its entirety by a guy named Mike. The oldest is the Augusta AVA in the western outskirts of St. Louis, which was established in June 1980, two years after the Treasury Department finalized the rule creating the designations and seven months before Napa Valley got the nod. The newest is the Contra Costa AVA in the eastern suburbs of San Francisco, established this month. There’s an Ulupalakua AVA on the island of Maui, a Texoma AVA on the Texas-Oklahoma border, a Tip of the Mitt AVA in Michigan and a Martha’s Vineyard AVA off the coast of Massachusetts. And so on.

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March 25, 2024 Wine
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