A Revolutionary Study Unravels the History of Wine Grape Migration###

Have you ever wondered how the distinct flavors of wine differ from region to region? The terroir, a combination of soil, topography, and microclimate, is known to play a significant role in determining the taste of wine. But little did we know about the genetic journey that brought these grapes to their respective regions – until now.

A groundbreaking genetic study has shed new light on the prehistory of wine, overturning long-held beliefs about human cultivation and the origins of grapevines. An international group of researchers embarked on an ambitious project to collect and analyze 2,503 unique vines from domesticated table and wine grapes, along with 1,022 wild grapevines. By analyzing the DNA extracted from these vines and studying the patterns of genetic variations among them, the team unveiled some surprising findings.

For centuries, grape growers relied on oral traditions to trace the origins of their grapes. European governments even designated strict appellations to regulate the production of varietals like burgundy or barolo. However, it was only a decade or so ago that genetic studies began to uncover the ancient origins of grapevines.

One prevailing narrative suggested that wild grapes grew in central Asia and spread westward as early humans migrated. However, the genetic data from this extensive study contradicts this narrative. Wei Chen, a senior research scientist at Yunnan Agricultural University in China and one of the study’s leaders, asserts that grapes grew naturally across the western and central Eurasian continent between 400,000 and 300,000 years ago.

Around 200,000 years ago, a cold ice-age climate took its toll on vine habitats in the central Mediterranean Sea region, dividing them into two isolated areas: one to the west (present-day Portugal, Spain, and France) and another to the east (Israel, Syria, Turkey, and Georgia). Approximately 56,000 years ago, the eastern region further fragmented into the Caucasus (Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan) and western Asia (Israel, Jordan, and Iraq).

Contrary to previous assumptions, the recent study reveals that humans domesticated table grapes in western Asia around 11,000 years ago. Simultaneously, people in the Caucasus also domesticated wine grapes. However, the Caucasus region did not play a significant role in shaping the genetic makeup of European wine grapes.

As early farmers migrated from western Asia towards Iberia, they carried the table vines with them, crossbreeding them with local wild grapevines along the way. The first crossbreeding likely occurred in present-day Israel and Turkey, resulting in the creation of muscat grapes, which have a high sugar content suitable for both consumption and fermentation. Over time, the table grape underwent genetic transformations in the Balkans, Italy, France, and Spain, evolving into the diverse wine grape varietals we know today.

Interestingly, despite already having wine grapes in the Caucasus, it remains unclear why they didn’t spread to Europe. Chen suggests that Yamnaya nomads, who migrated around 4,000 to 5,000 years ago, might have brought vines with them. However, the genetic analysis suggests that Caucasus grapes had minimal influence on the genetic makeup of European wine grapes.

Once farmers began cultivating wine grapes in Europe, they developed a plethora of varietals that we enjoy today. Some grape varieties, like cabernet sauvignon, retain their names regardless of where they are grown. Others, such as zinfandel and primitivo, may be genetically identical but have different names depending on the region they are cultivated in.

The comprehensive study has revolutionized our understanding of the history and migration of wine grapes. By unraveling the genetic journey of grapevines, we can now appreciate the intricate interplay of human cultivation and natural adaptation, which has given rise to the diverse flavors that tantalize our taste buds.

It is nearly impossible to trace back the origins of current grape varietals to their early domestication centers in western Asia or the Caucasus. Throughout history, grape growers have extensively crossbred table and wine grapes, as well as domesticated and wild grapes. To create superior vines, they often destroyed the previous ones, making it challenging to construct a family tree of grape varietals. As a result, we may never truly know where our favorite wines originated from. The mystique of wine’s true origins continues to captivate and intrigue. This article, titled “Wine’s True Origins,” was originally published in Scientific American (October 2023). Mark Fischetti is a senior editor for sustainability at Scientific American, while Francesco Franchi is an infographic designer and deputy creative director of la Repubblica. Additionally, Laura Helmuth, Sarah Scoles, Dina Genkina, Jack Murtagh, Marek N. Posard, Caitlin McCulloch, and Allison Parshall have also contributed their opinions on the matter.