ALPINE, Ore. (AP) — The U.S. West Coast boasts a thriving wine industry, responsible for over 90% of America’s wine production. However, this region’s susceptibility to wildfires has proven to be a significant threat to the industry, and scientists are urgently seeking solutions. A sip of good wine often reveals delightful notes of oak or red fruit. Conversely, a wine made from grapes exposed to smoke may taste as if someone emptied an ashtray into your glass. To combat this issue, researchers from three West Coast universities have joined forces to tackle the challenge head-on. Their collaborative efforts include developing spray coatings to protect grapes, identifying the elusive compounds responsible for the unpleasant ashy taste, and deploying smoke sensors in vineyards to gain a better understanding of how smoke behaves.

The U.S. government recognizes the critical nature of this research and has invested millions of dollars in funding. Wineries, too, are taking proactive measures to safeguard their products and maintain their brand reputation. The risk to America’s premier wine regions, which experienced billions of dollars in losses due to wildfires in 2020, continues to grow. Climate change has exacerbated drought conditions, while overgrown forests have become dangerous tinderboxes. The U.S. Department of Agriculture reports that grapes are the highest-value crop in the United States, with 96% of the 1 million acres of grape-bearing land located on the West Coast. Winemakers worldwide are already adapting to climate change by relocating their vineyards to cooler zones and cultivating grape varieties that fare better in drought and heat. However, the immediate threat of wildfires requires additional attention, which is why scientists from Oregon State University, Washington State University, and the University of California, Davis are focusing on this urgent issue.

Tom Collins, a wine scientist at Washington State University, emphasizes the importance of addressing the potential impact on wine production in regions prone to smoke exposures. Researchers like Cole Cerrato are actively exploring solutions at Oregon State University, where they have used a makeshift setup to expose grapes to smoke. By analyzing the resulting wine, they discovered the presence of sulfur-containing compounds, known as thiophenols, that contribute to the undesirable ashy flavor. Australian researchers had previously identified “volatile phenols” as additional factors influencing the taste more than a decade ago, as the wine industry in Australia has long grappled with the effects of bushfires.

In Washington state, Collins confirms the presence of these sulfur compounds in the smoke-exposed wine from the Oregon vineyard, while samples without smoke exposure did not contain them. The scientists aim to understand how thiophenols, undetectable in wildfire smoke, appear in smoke-affected wine and develop methods to eliminate them. Cerrato emphasizes that there is still much to learn, stating, “There’s still a lot of very interesting chemistry and very interesting research, to start looking more into these new compounds. We just don’t have the answers yet.”

Wine made with tainted grapes often becomes undrinkable and cannot be sold in the market. The reputation of winemakers is also at stake, making it a risk few are willing to take. During the record wildfires that consumed the West Coast in 2020, some California wineries refused to accept grapes without prior testing. However, the overwhelming demand for testing facilities left many growers with no viable options. According to Jon Moramarco, an analysis conducted for industry groups revealed that the damage to the California wine industry alone amounted to $3.7 billion. This substantial loss primarily resulted from wineries having to forfeit future wine sales. Moramarco explains, “But really what drove it was, you know, a lot of the impact was in Napa (Valley), an area of some of the highest priced grapes, highest priced wines in the U.S.,” adding, “If a ton of cabernet sauvignon grapes is ruined, you lose probably 720 bottles of wine. If it is worth $100 a bottle, it adds up very quickly.” In 2020, between 165,000 to 325,000 tons of California wine grapes were left to wither on the vine due to actual wildfires or smoke exposure.

In conclusion, the threat posed by wildfires to America’s wine industry cannot be overstated. The collaborative efforts of researchers from key West Coast universities, combined with government funding and proactive measures by wineries, highlight the urgency of finding solutions. As climate change continues to exacerbate the risk, it is essential to understand and address the compounds responsible for the ashy taste caused by smoke-exposed grapes. By doing so, the industry can better protect its reputation, product, and the livelihoods of those involved.

Title: Battling Wildfire Impacts: Innovations in Wine Production

Introduction:

The devastating effects of wildfires have significantly impacted the wine industry in California, Oregon, and Washington. Growers and winemakers are facing several challenges, including securing insurance, dealing with high premiums, and finding ways to mitigate the smoke flavor compounds that adversely affect the quality and taste of wine. However, innovative techniques and research are offering a glimmer of hope in overcoming these obstacles.

Insurance Woes:

The wine industry is experiencing hardships due to the increased risk of wildfires in the region. Growers are finding it increasingly difficult to secure insurance, and those who do often face exorbitant premiums. The high rates have become a significant burden for many, threatening their livelihoods. These challenges have prompted the search for alternative approaches to safeguard vineyards and prevent fire-related losses.

Mitigating Smoke Impact:

Winemakers are tackling the issue of smoke flavor compounds through various approaches. Some techniques involve passing wine through a membrane or treating it with carbon, but these methods can sometimes strip the wine of its unique characteristics. Blending impacted grapes with unaffected grapes is also an option that vintners are exploring. Additionally, limited skin contact during the winemaking process by producing rosé instead of red wine can help reduce the concentration of smoke flavor compounds.

Novel Approaches:

Researchers are working tirelessly to find new and innovative solutions to combat the effects of wildfire smoke exposure on grapes. Natalie Collins, president of the California Association of Winegrape Growers, reports an ongoing experiment at Washington State University where wine grapes are sprayed with a mixture of fine-powdered clays, such as kaolin or bentonite, combined with water. This approach aims to absorb smoke-related materials, which can then be washed off before harvesting. Similarly, Oregon State University is developing a spray-on coating that could provide an additional layer of protection for vineyards.

Smoke Sensor Technology:

To better understand smoke exposure risks and develop mitigation strategies, researchers have deployed a network of smoke sensors in vineyards across the three states. A USDA grant has helped finance this initiative, which aims to measure smoke marker compounds. Anita Oberholster, leading UC Davis’ efforts, emphasizes the importance of these measurements in developing effective strategies to address smoke exposure risks.

Positive Outlook:

Industry leaders, such as Greg Jones of Abacela winery in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, commend the efforts of scientists and researchers. Their work is crucial in identifying potential compounds that contribute to smoke-impacted wine. While the search for a magic solution continues, there is optimism that a combination of strategies will ultimately provide a path forward for growers and winemakers.

Conclusion:

The wine industry’s struggle with wildfire impacts is undeniably challenging, with growers facing insurance obstacles and winemakers grappling with smoke flavor compounds. However, ongoing research and innovation are providing hope for a brighter future. By implementing various techniques, such as blending grapes, limiting skin contact, and experimenting with novel approaches like clay sprays and coatings, the industry is working toward mitigating the effects of wildfire smoke exposure. Collaboration between researchers, growers, and winemakers is crucial in finding a comprehensive set of strategies to address these challenges and ensure the continued excellence of wines from California, Oregon, and Washington.