Winemakers often keep a watchful eye on the sky during the harvest season, hoping for favorable weather. While California’s vineyard managers face typical agricultural challenges, Giorgi Iukuridze, owner and CEO of SHABO wines in Ukraine, is fixated on a much graver concern: the threat of missile attacks.

Located around 120 miles from the frontlines of the ongoing war, Iukuridze’s winery has been subjected to bombings and drone strikes on seven occasions since the conflict began, with the last incident occurring last New Year’s Eve. Despite these harrowing conditions, he perseveres in the vineyards, maintaining hope amid the chaos.

Iukuridze’s journey into winemaking was unexpected; he initially pursued degrees in politics and international relations, only discovering his passion while working in vineyards across France. His vineyards in southern Ukraine bask in an ideal climate similar to that of Bordeaux, benefiting from dry winters and cooling breezes, though the current war complicates matters immensely.

Despite these adversities, Iukuridze is optimistic about the vintage quality this year, stating that his father, a veteran winemaker, believes it to be exceptional. The winery, founded in 2003 and named after the local village, has seen its share of tumultuous history, from Swiss winemakers establishing it in 1822, to nationalization during the Russian revolution, and later privatization.

Iukuridze takes great pride in cultivating grape varieties, especially saperavi and rkatsiteli from Georgia, and a unique native variety called telti-kuruk, which dates back to the Ottoman era. Yet, while the harvest itself remains a challenging yet feasible task, distributing the wines is fraught with danger and complexity due to the war.

International shipments now reroute through Moldova, and U.S. deliveries must pass through Romania, all while maintaining safety amid ongoing attacks. Personnel shortages due to military enlistment further complicate operations; numerous staff members have joined the military, while the company even resorts to sending accountants into the vineyards.

As the war has escalated, Iukuridze’s team has adapted by providing bottled water to hospitals and schools when water infrastructure was destroyed. He takes pride in these efforts, declaring that despite the rampant destruction, Ukrainians continue to indulge in wine.

Iukuridze recalls a wine fair in Kyiv that attracted no attendees during its first year but saw him sell out all his wine within hours during the second year. The demand for high-quality wines remains robust, as they are highly regarded next to traditional spirit options like vodka.

Although wine sales are crucial for SHABO, brandy production is where the company sees higher profits. Among 250 wine producers in Ukraine, SHABO stands out among the few large-scale operations that survive, despite losing two significant competitors to bombings.

At 28, Iukuridze has prioritized his winery over military duty, as it plays a vital role in generating substantial tax revenue for Ukraine’s economy. He is determined that this winery is just as important in the fight for victory and independence.

Moreover, supporting winemakers like Iukuridze goes beyond just taste; it becomes a testament to resilience amid adversity. SHABO wines are available online at SHABO’s official website, and offer unique varieties such as:

• SHABO Original Collection Rosé 2023 ($20): A refreshing blend of pinot noir and merlot with bright fruit notes.
• SHABO Original Collection Chardonnay 2023 ($20): Exhibiting varietal apple and tropical flavors with balanced acidity.
• SHABO Telti-Kuruk Reserve 2023 ($30): A distinctive white grape with fresh fruit and floral aromas.
• SHABO Saperavi Reserve 2023 ($30): A signature Georgian red with rich berry flavors.
• SHABO Grand Reserve Cabernet Merlot 2023 ($65): A robust blend with a strong tannin structure and aged in French oak for depth.

Winemakers like Iukuridze exemplify courage and adaptability, showcasing how the love for wine persists even amidst the backdrop of conflict.