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From Vine to Glass: Inside the Multi-Million Dollar Winery Crafting Exquisite Spanish Red Wine

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Driving through the tranquil Rioja wine region in north-central Spain offers visitors a picturesque view of stunning landscapes dotted with rustic bodegas and ancient bush vines. As the majestic Sierra de Cantabria mountains loom in the background, one particularly remarkable structure emerges: the Macán Winery, a stunning representation of the harmonious beauty between architecture and nature.

The Macán Winery, an artistic achievement designed by renowned Spanish architect Enrique Johanson de Terry, is owned by Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia S.A. The project signifies a collaboration between two of the most prominent wine families globally, aiming to recapture the soul of Rioja’s heritage as inspired by the classic wines of the 1950s and 1960s.

Costing around $34 million, the winery comprises several plots of old vines strategically acquired over the years. Johanson cleverly designed the winery to symbolize the fundamental activities within any winery — elaboration, aging, and expedition — through three distinct structures representing water, earth, and sun, respectively. The features of these buildings include expansive oak and stainless steel vats for wine production, ideal cellars for aging, and sunlit offices that encourage a vibrant work atmosphere.

At the helm of this venture is Pablo Álvarez, owner of Vega Sicilia, who has meticulously dedicated significant time and resources to revitalize the spirit of Rioja. His passion for the Viña Real wines of the past inspires him to source vineyards in the region, particularly in Rioja Alavesa, where the limestone-rich soil enhances the distinctive minerality and acidity of the wine.

Before the Macán Winery’s establishment in 2016, Álvarez spent years acquiring old vines, some dating back as far as 1920. His commitment to perfection in winemaking strives to echo the elegance of classic Rioja wines while elevating the Macán labels to rival the celebrated Vega Sicilia offerings.

Unlike other wineries in the Tempos Vega Sicilia group, the Macán Winery distinctly honors Benjamin de Rothschild, who tragically passed away in 2021, ensuring his legacy continues in the wine world. Álvarez cherished their friendship and collaborative vision, determined to create exceptional wines that would finally recognize Rothschild’s contributions alongside his family’s illustrious wine history.

The Macán Winery has released its first and second wines, modeled after the esteemed Grand Cru Classé wines of Bordeaux. The 2020 Macán Clásico, a refined 100% Tempranillo vintage, showcases a bouquet of raspberries complemented by vibrant citrus notes. In contrast, the 2019 Macán, also pure Tempranillo, offers rich and concentrated flavors of cassis and blackberry, coupled with an intricate depth that reflects the winery’s dedication to excellence.

With a commitment to both quality and tribute, the Macán Winery embodies the rich heritage of Rioja while aiming for the recognition and prestige that its founders envisioned.

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February 27, 2025 Wine
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