Aerial view of Maison Louis Latour in Burgundy, France

There is something captivating about a business sustaining its independence for over two centuries. Established in 1797, the Latour family has carried on their legacy through twelve generations. They have acquired notable vineyards across Burgundy and have maintained enduring partnerships with vine growers. Located in the village of Aloxe-Corton, Maison Latour is now a prominent and noteworthy presence in this intricate wine region.

At the core of the Latour operation is a substantial negociant business that orchestrates the release of more than 150 different wines annually, presenting perhaps the most expansive single-company perspective on Burgundy available. Stretching from the limestone-rich soils of Chablis down through the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, and reaching the warmer granite terrains of Beaujolais, the company boasts a collection that beautifully reflects the distinct qualities of regional, village, and single vineyard terroirs. For many first-time Burgundy buyers, Latour’s offerings serve as an extensive introductory guide.

The recent launch of their village and Premier Cru wines has generated considerable excitement among their team, including director Florent Latour. “We’re extremely excited about this vintage. It includes both great volume and high quality, which comes as a welcome change following some challenging years,” he noted. The white wines are noted for their robust structure and the well-maintained balance between acidity and richness, with highlights including the vibrant, accessible Pouilly-Fuissé and the denser, opulent Meursault. The reds, sourced from places like Marsannay, Pommard, and Volnay, are praised for their elegance, ripe fruits, and spice.

View across the vines at Maison Louis Latour in Burgundy.

Across the board the Latours were pleased with 2022. “It was a lovely surprise. We had a hot, dry summer but it went cooler towards the end of August, allowing us to achieve that typical Burgundian balance.” Although there was concern during the intense summer heat, conditions played out positively in the end. With so many wines to oversee, that picture is far too simplistic; but, it is in the more challenging years that the strength of the Latour network shows.

Christophe Deola, who through his role at Domaine Louis Latour looks after the company’s 48 hectares of owned vineyard, including 27 hectares of Grand Cru, points out the importance of working together. “Those relationships are central to our being able to produce the highest-quality wines.” Although the company produces some exceptional wine from their own vineyards, ensuring the continuity of additional supply is a crucial aspect of the business. Florent Latour elaborates that “I’m the 11th generation, so what we bring to the table as a family isn’t always tangible. We work with many families and it’s our way of life to talk to the next generation. We’re always trying to be the solution and together we build the appellation.”

Densely planted vineyard parcels in Burgundy

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Sustainable agriculture is a curious subject in the Burgundy. At the top end of the trade, organics and biodynamics are the foundation of the region’s highly collectable fine wines. Nevertheless, the use of pesticides across the region is still disappointingly high. Growers may point to the viability of conversion, especially in light of recent vintage variation, but the concentration of surface area under vine here is so dense that individual farming decisions have repercussions beyond property boundaries.

Latour says, “we try to see beyond the parcel. My brother defended forests at the top of the hill. We try to go beyond talk of practices. We are heavily involved in local organisations. We understand that the solution always involves our neighbours.” He reminds us that you can’t deal with soil erosion on your own, and the company has created an organisation to increase biodiversity. “The idea is to preserve the whole landscape, but we’re always trying to improve. What comes out of the vineyard must go back in.” The deployment of solar and use of electric robots are also nudging the business in a more sustainable direction.

That ethos arguably extends beyond simply a respect for the environment, but also into the preservation of adjacent trades and traditions. “We’re the only company to operate our own cooperage”. Producing around 3500 barrels each year, half of which are used for ageing their own wines, and the other half exported around the world, it’s a sizeable operation. “When taking care of a multi generational business it is important to think about the future and never stand still. Experimentation is always taking place, but we also work on contingencies.”

Historic photo of Mason Louis Latour

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Critics have noted the rising costs of Burgundy wines, though there seems to be a market correction occurring. “The years 2020 and 2021 were phenomenal, with global demand soaring for Burgundy wines. Then, adverse weather reduced harvest volumes, which further drove up prices,” explains a representative from the industry. Nevertheless, Latour’s extensive selection can accommodate a range of budgets. “Our inventory includes everything from village wines to Premier and Grand cru at various price levels, which keeps Burgundy accessible,” they added.

For over three decades, Maison Louis Latour has established a robust presence in the U.S. market through its own subsidiary. Florent Latour highlights the importance of their distribution partnerships. “Visibility through volume sales is crucial, and we are fortunate to work with remarkable, longstanding partners such as Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits, M.S. Walker, and Touton Selection,” he remarks.

Cindy Leonard from Southern Glazer’s discusses their enduring association. “Since 1971, we’ve been privileged to represent and distribute these exquisite wines. Our relationship started with Mel Dick and the 10th-generation leader, Louis Latour. Under his son Louis-Fabrice, and now with Florent Latour and the new general manager, Eléonore Latour, we continue to expand our collaboration,” she says.

Eléonore Latour, representing the 12th generation, steps into a pioneering leadership role. Leonard accentuates the significance of this change, “Eléonore’s leadership is noteworthy, as she is among the first and youngest women to helm a major Burgundy house.” Florent Latour expresses their core expertise in Chardonnay, suggesting that each price point unveils a new aspect of Burgundy. His preferred selections include regional wines from Auxey-Duresses, Pouilly-Fuisse, Macon-Lugny, Chassagne, Puligny Montrachet, and the consistently admired Meursault.

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