Port is finding a fresh place in winter cocktails, adding rich fruit, sweetness and complexity to seasonal drinks. Though it may seem like a traditional after-dinner wine, it’s versatile enough for everything from aperitifs to simple spritzes.

Port is a fortified wine from Portugal’s Douro Valley. During fermentation, grape spirit is added to preserve some of the grapes’ natural sweetness, creating a concentrated wine with deep flavor. Styles range from bright, berry-forward ruby ports to aged tawnies with notes of dried fruit, nuts and caramel.

That variety makes port useful behind the bar. It can complement or stand in for vermouth and other sweet ingredients, bringing depth without requiring a long list of additions. Its fruit and spice notes also pair naturally with winter flavors such as cranberry, orange, cinnamon, ginger and chocolate.

An easy way to try it is a port spritz: pour port over ice, top with sparkling water or tonic, and add a slice or twist of citrus. The proportions can be adjusted to taste.

For cocktails, there’s no need to splurge on a vintage bottle. A good-quality, fruit-forward reserve ruby port has enough character to hold its own alongside other ingredients. Save exceptional vintage ports for sipping on their own.