Only 300 bottles of a new Riesling white wine from a limited section of a Grand Cru site have arrived in the U.S. market, and it is poised to attain legendary status.

At the entrance of Grand Cru Kitterlé, a unique ring sculpture welcomes visitors.

For dedicated collectors of notable and luxury white wines crafted from the Riesling grape, it’s well-known that these wines are among the most enduring, often thriving for up to 50 years when stored under optimal conditions. Fortunately, many can also provide a remarkable, transcendent experience much earlier in their lifespan.

Location: Alsace, France

Three renowned countries are celebrated for their iconic Riesling wines: Germany, Austria, and France. The first two are clear choices, but the inclusion of France might raise some eyebrows, as many popular wine varieties originate from this region, with Riesling perhaps seeming somewhat out of place. However, the northeastern French region of Alsace, which shares a border with Germany, has experienced numerous shifts in governance between the two nations. This history is still evident in Alsace today, reflected in the German-inspired architecture, the regional cuisine, traditional German surnames, and, importantly, the exceptional Riesling produced alongside three other esteemed white grape varieties.

An esteemed wine producer, Domaines Schlumberger, is one of the oldest wine houses in Alsace and possesses the largest collection of Grand Cru vineyards. They have unveiled a distinctive wine from a rare plot that is poised to become the next celebrated wine from Alsace: ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling.

Wine enthusiasts and collectors will quickly recognize that while the name ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ is mentioned as a Grand Cru vineyard, it does not actually exist as such in Alsace. Instead, it refers to a small, uniquely named parcel that operates as a monopole within the Grand Cru vineyard Kitterlé, which is Domaine Schlumberger’s premier site for Riesling. A monopole signifies that the parcel is wholly owned by a single producer, in this case, Domaine Schlumberger. This exceptional Grand Cru monopole is situated at an elevation exceeding 1,000 feet, featuring terraced slopes that ascend at a steep 50 degrees, earning it the nickname “Calf Breaker.” This moniker reflects the challenging reality of vineyard management, which must be accomplished manually due to the terrain’s severity. The unique attributes of this parcel, combined with the prevalence of volcanic rocks in the soil, contribute to producing low yields that result in highly complex and concentrated wines.

Have you ever wondered about the origin of the name Le Clos Saint Léger? It takes its name from the nearby Saint Léger Church, where a monk documented the area in the 12th century, describing it as a “blessed valley, like a celestial jewel.” This description beautifully encapsulates the wine’s remarkable attributes.

Séverine Schlumberger and Thomas Schlumberger

Currently, Thomas Schlumberger, the seventh-generation co-owner, manages Domaines Schlumberger alongside his sister, Séverine. Their family is recognized for owning the most extensive collection of Grand Cru vineyards, with a total of four different Grand Crus. They acknowledge the weight of their responsibility and approach it with seriousness. Thomas feels immense gratitude for his family’s natural ability to recognize exceptional vineyard sites long before the official classification system was established, as well as their perseverance in safeguarding these valuable lands through challenging times.

‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling, positioned near the ring sculpture

Thomas and his sister have adopted organic farming methods to enhance the balance of their vines. They have implemented horse plowing, which is environmentally friendly and helps mitigate soil compaction, while also opting for reduced yields despite the already naturally low yields of their small parcel called ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’. For the release of their special bottling designated as ‘Le Clos Saint Léger,’ they plan to withhold vintages until they are deemed ready for sale. Thomas mentioned that the 2019 vintage will likely be released before the 2018, as the latter appears to require significantly more aging. He emphasized that any vintage failing to meet the highest standards will be excluded from the ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ bottling.

The Schlumberger family possesses 50 acres of the 64-acre Grand Cru Kitterlé area, making them multi-generational authorities on this exceptional Grand Cru estate. Their intimate knowledge of each small segment of this remarkable site, which features one of just a few vineyard areas in Alsace with distinctive volcanic soil, speaks volumes. Therefore, when they claim that the ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel represents their finest location for Riesling, it carries great significance. No other producer boasts as many Grand Cru vineyards as they do, and their familiarity with the Grand Cru Kitterlé site—characterized by its demanding viticulture due to steep slopes—sets them apart. This expert knowledge applied to an already outstanding vineyard points to the potential creation of an iconic wine.

2019 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling

A limited production of a few thousand bottles of the 2017 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling has been made, with only 300 bottles allocated for the U.S. market.

The tasting notes provided cover not only the 2017 vintage but also the 2018, 2019, and 2020, although currently, only the 2017 is available for purchase in select locations, with the other vintages set aside until they are ready for release; each bottle is meticulously hand numbered.

2017 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling: Made entirely from Riesling sourced from the ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel. The wine showcases a fantastic light golden hue that sparkles in the light, complemented by enchanting aromas of smoky minerals, honeysuckle, and a remarkable purity of fruit. On the palate, it reveals a delightful richness balanced by lively acidity, with a textural quality that contributes lift and precision throughout the long, expressive finish.

2018 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling: Also 100% Riesling from the ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel. The nose captivates with delightful scents reminiscent of freshly made crêpes drizzled with lemon curd and sprinkled with candied violets. It possesses a robust backbone of saline minerality and bright acidity, embellished by hints of aniseeds that subtly emerge in the background.

2019 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling: This vintage is once again 100% Riesling from the ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ parcel. It presents a refined bouquet of wet river stones accompanied by juicy apricots, delivering a palate rich in dense flavors, including caramelized peaches, balanced by zesty orange rind. The wine features a well-structured body and a laser-focused finish, highlighting its crisp acidity.

2020 Domaines Schlumberger ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ Grand Cru Riesling is a remarkable wine crafted from 100% Riesling grapes sourced from the ‘Le Clos Saint Léger’ vineyard. It presents an alluring bouquet featuring lemon blossom intertwined with subtle hints of jasmine. The wine’s profile is complemented by an underlying essence of salty lemon confit, while its pronounced acidity infuses a dynamic energy that showcases a remarkable level of tension.

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