November 2023 166
The Collaboration Between Scientists and the Cork Industry for Wine Quality Preservation
November 29, 2023
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by Center for Research in Agricultural Genomics (CRAG)
Spain produces 50% of the world’s cork and 30% of all cork stoppers. Cork is a natural polymer which has been a crucial element used to seal bottles, being of great importance for the wine industry. However, a major challenge is the appearance of the “corked wine” aroma, caused by the presence of a compound called trichloroanisole or TCA in the stoppers. Due to its high volatility, TCA can migrate from the cork to the wine, adversely affecting its taste.
In this context, the CRAG research team lead by David Caparrós-Ruiz, head of the Bioengineering of Lignocellulosic Biomass group, participated in the Cork2Wine project, which is coordinated by the cork company Francisco Oller SA.
This project is aimed at identifying the origin of TCA and explore solutions to the “corked wine” aroma problem. Researchers at CRAG analyzed cork oak samples from Sardinia and Girona, two regions with different TCA levels in the cork. The comparison of gene activity, achieved through sequencing and comparing RNA molecules, followed by bioinformatics studies, allowed this group to identify a list of phenolic metabolites present in different abundances in the two cork tree populations.
“Obtaining this list of compounds has been the first step to understand the complete TCA metabolic pathway. This knowledge is essential for finding new solutions to this problem,” says David Caparrós-Ruiz, leader of the research at CRAG.
While TCA is present in the cork, microorganisms are known to play a role in its production, which would use the oak’s phenolic compounds identified in this project as precursors to produce TCA. Identifying these precursor compounds is crucial and opens the possibility to build new biotechnological tools aimed at reducing or eliminating TCA in cork.
“Cork companies are eager to engage in research, and we are delighted with this collaboration with CRAG,” says Jordi Roselló, R&D head at Francisco Oller SA.
The Cork2Wine project was a consortium uniting various stakeholders in the cork sector, including companies, wineries, oak farms, a chemical sector company, and research groups. It lasted four years (from 2019 to 2023). The project served as the starting point for this public-private collaboration, which now continues thanks to a new research project awarded within the framework of the Recovery, Transformation, and Resilience Plan with Next Generation funds.
The Cork2Wine project exemplifies how public-private partnerships can translate fundamental research into societal benefits, demonstrating the impact of knowledge generated in the research system on citizens.
Provided by Center for Research in Agricultural Genomics (CRAG)
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Review: The Versatility of Smirnoff’s Red, White & Merry Vodka in Cocktails Despite Its Lack of Vibrant Flavor
Smirnoff is one of the most prominent vodka producers globally. Consistently being ranked as the best-selling vodka worldwide as reported by The Spirits Business. The publication shares that Smirnoff’s sales saw a 6% increase in 2022, selling 28.1 million cases, an improvement from 26.5 million in the previous year.
The success of Smirnoff can be attributed not only to the classic No. 21 vodka but also to its extensive range of 26 different flavors and zero-sugar infusions. Striving to continually delight their customers, the company has expanded its product line to include seasonal, limited-release flavors. Initially, Smirnoff Peppermint Twist and Red, White & Berry were introduced as limited-release products, but due to their popularity, they were incorporated into the company’s regular product line. Smirnoff even created vodka-filled Christmas ornaments one year.
For the festive season of 2023, Smirnoff is bringing to the table a limited-release Red, White & Merry vodka. We decided to give this holiday spirit a try. As a seasoned Sommelier and writer specializing in wines and spirits, my two decades of experience tasting and critiquing various vodka brands and products came in handy for this review. Here’s what we thought.
Additionally, you could check out: 13 Liquors Your Home Bar Should Have
Smirnoff Red, White & Merry vodka is a gluten-free liquor that pairs natural flavors with certified colors in order to offer a holiday-inspired spirit. The palate offers notes of orange, cranberry, and ginger. The flavor profile is inspired by the boutique 2022 offering from the company’s Smirnoff Ice seasonal release, Red, White & Merry Ice Holiday Punch, which had hints of cranberry, black cherry, blood orange, and ginger.
Each 1.5-ounce serving of Red, White & Merry’s 60-proof vodka clocks in at 89 calories and presents an attractive pink hue. As reported by Medical News Today, this calorie count is slightly below that of an unadorned ‘shot and a half’ of vodka, which typically has 96 calories. The marginally lower calorie count may be attributed to the slightly reduced alcohol by volume (ABV) in flavored vodkas. This is a consequence of dilution that occurs when sugars and other flavors are added. The United States Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives specifies a minimum ABV of 40% for standard, unflavored vodkas. In contrast, Smirnoff’s holiday offering features an ABV of 30%.
For those with a penchant for handcrafted, cranberry-infused vodka, Smirnoff offers an appealing alternative. With Smirnoff’s Red, White & Merry holiday bottle, there’s no need for the laborious crushing, straining and waiting involved in DIY infusions. The flavor of cranberry features prominently in this handy, 750ml bottle.
Like all Smirnoff vodka distributed in the US, this gluten-free variant derives from corn. The distillation process typically renders most vodka gluten-free, regardless of its base being wheat, barley, other grains, potatoes, grapes, or corn. However, using corn as the primary ingredient provides reassurance for those on celiac-friendly diets. Smirnoff ensures that no hidden gluten-containing components are added to its flavorings.
The spirit is triple-distilled to yield a well-balanced taste. This triple distillation process acts as a purification method for the vodka, allowing for a palatable experience free from contaminants with softer natural flavors and a rounded off characteristic.
Smirnoff’s Red, White & Merry boasts the taste of citrus and berry fruit, enhanced with the warming, spicy notes of ginger. It echoes familiar sensations we associate with holiday flavors, such as the cozy spiced mulled wine, cranberry sauce, and gingerbread. We put the vodka to the test – both neat in a tulip-shaped wine glass with no ice and over ice in a rocks glass. The tulip glass choice is due to its ability to amplify the vodka’s aromatic profile because the shape of the glass plays a crucial role in intensifying these aromas and directing them toward the nose.
Our sampling revealed that the vodka gives off a fresh, fruity scent, fulfilling the ripe red berry and zesty citrus descriptions of the product. The vodka offers a dense, syrupy consistency, akin to a honeyed, sweet syrup during the tasting. The flavor is saccharine and fruity, with cranberry being the predominant taste on the front palate while a somewhat artificial, heavily sweet flavor marks the finish. The tasting notes include more of berry and cherry instead of citrus. We found ourselves desiring a more pronounced citrusy flavor and a stronger presence of the zesty, warming, and spicy ginger. Ice does help temper the sweetness, yet the strongest flavor remains to be cranberry.
In spite of Smirnoff being a globally renowned and top-selling vodka brand, it does not inflate its prices. Smirnoff No. 21 vodka is one of the more economical vodka choices available in the market. The brand’s flavored vodka varieties adhere to similar pricing structures, averaging around $14 for a 750ml bottle of Smirnoff Red, White & Merry, similar in price to the brand’s Peppermint Twist and Pink Lemonade vodka variants.
Fitting with the season, the bottle is wrapped like a Christmas present in a red casing, with gold accents and red glitter to bring a little glitz and glamour to the holidays. Following the initial release of the seasonal product on November 1, 2023, Smirnoff’s Red, White & Merry vodka will be on sale through the end of the year to compliment any holiday occasion. The vodka is available at alcohol retailers nationwide.
Like any vodka, Smirnoff’s Red, White & Merry makes the perfect base for an array of martinis, mixed drinks, and holiday cocktails. Though the vodka’s sweet, fruity flavors are prominent enough to mix the liquor with club soda or seltzer simply, we found it best mixed into cocktails with additional flavored mixers. Beverages like ginger beer, pure cranberry juice, and lemon-lime soda, with garnishes like fresh herbs and citrus wheels, help balance the overall sweetness while enhancing the overall flavor of the vodka.
Use it in cocktails to add fruit-forward flavors to a festive Christmas punch, enhance cranberry orange crush cocktails, or make Ina Garten’s big batch Cosmopolitans, perfect for entertaining a group of friends this holiday season. For those feeling adventurous, we suggest adding it as a cranberry twist on a Moscow mule, intensifying the cranberry flavor in a classic Madras cocktail, or using it in a frozen Cosmo. The icy cocktail is the best use of leftover cranberry sauce we have tasted.
Smirnoff’s Red, White & Merry includes such a unique combination of ingredients that no other flavored vodka on the market is exactly like it. Of course, other citrus, ginger, and cranberry vodkas are available. However, Smirnoff is the only one to put the three flavors together.
Nevertheless, Smirnoff’s vodka primarily exhibited a cranberry flavor and so we set it up against Deep Eddy Cranberry Vodka for comparison. This is also made from a corn base, similarly to Smirnoff, and consequently is naturally gluten-free. Availability and pricing of the Texas-produced vodka are nearly identical to Smirnoff’s.
The alcohol content in Deep Eddy Cranberry vodka is a little more than Smirnoff’s, at 35% ABV, and it undergoes distillation ten times as opposed to Smirnoff’s three times. The added distillation processes result in ultra-smooth vodka with a neat, balanced flavor profile and smooth texture. The vodka involves actual cranberry juice rather than natural flavorings, which gives it a more genuine and tart cranberry flavor compared to what Smirnoff provides. Pure cane sugar is also incorporated into Deep Eddy’s, crafting a perfect balance of sweetness and tart fruitiness.
In terms of purchasing a bottle of Smirnoff’s Red, White & Merry this holiday season, we appreciate any product that can immerse us into the festive mood. Our hopes were high for Smirnoff’s Red, White & Merry vodka. We like its gluten-free nature and its alcohol content, which is lower than what other vodka products offer. The alcohol being affordable and widely available across the country till the end of the year is also worth noting.
However, Smirnoff’s vodka was found to be best used as a fundamental ingredient in cocktails that include other powerfully flavored mixers. This makes us question if it wouldn’t have been better to use a regular, unflavored vodka since anyway we need additional juices and mixers to realize the fruity, spicy taste that the flavored vodka claims to offer. On the positive side, we did find that the bright red packaging it comes in is quite attractive. It would certainly liven up a bar cart and would make an attractive gift for any vodka connoisseur.
Read the original article on Tasting Table.
First Taste Review: George Dickel’s Newest and Oldest Whiskey – The 18-Year-Old Bourbon
Tennessee whiskey brand George Dickel just released its oldest expression to date, an expensive 18-year-old bourbon that is complex, balanced, and not overly oaky despite spending nearly two decades maturing in barrels.
George Dickel is the second best known Tennessee whiskey brand after Jack Daniel’s, the behemoth that dominates all whiskey categories. This Diageo-owned brand is produced at Cascade Hollow Distilling Co. in the small town of Tullahoma, and the operation has been overseen by general manager and distiller Nicole Austin since 2018. That’s a very good thing—Austin has revitalized the brand with releases like the Bottled-in-Bond series, the experimental Cascade Moon lineup, and the introduction of a bourbon into the portfolio. That last one might seem a bit subjective, because technically most Tennessee whiskey is bourbon that has undergone the extra step of charcoal filtration before going into barrels (something some whiskey fans will debate all day). In a recent interview with Robb Report, Austin admitted that calling some of the whiskey bourbon and some Tennessee whiskey can be hard to explain. “The category gets more and more varied, so this is my perspective of what I think of as a classic American whiskey flavor profile,” she said. “Someone could argue with me that I’m doing it wrong, but they’re not in charge, so by all means!”
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Dickel Bourbon was introduced in 2021 as an eight-year-old expression—and one that we really loved. Austin started looking at these older barrels in 2019, and she says that the new 18-year-old is not just an older version of last year’s 17-year-old release. “I knew people were interested in these older expressions from Dickel,” she said. “When I was looking at barrels for the 17-year-old Tennessee whiskey, I found some that had a lot more of that vanilla and fruit character and I set them aside for this… I chose to call them bourbon because it was a continuation of the same reason that Dickel Bourbon exists—this is an older version of that flavor profile.”
Many of the barrels that went into this release were nearly empty, having lost 70 to 80 percent in angel’s share, or evaporation, over nearly 20 years of hot Tennessee summers and cold winters. Surprisingly, that did not result in a dried-out oak bomb of a whiskey. On the contrary, there are delicate fruits on the palate, along with sour apple, cherry-lime soda, chocolate-orange, vanilla pudding, and a burst of citrus. Some mellow smoky oak permeates throughout, culminating in a warm and lengthy finish, thanks to the whiskey being bottled at 90 proof. Still, Austin acknowledges that $510 is a lot to ask someone to pay for a bottle of Dickel, a brand not normally associated with such high prices, but she feels confident about its value. “I want people to trust that this liquid is rooted in something I believe in,” she said. “Finding American whiskey this old is rare, especially with this flavor profile.” Besides, the naysayers don’t really bother her. “No matter what you do, someone is going to be mean to you on the Internet. Once you realize that, it’s freeing, so I might as well make the whiskey I want to make.”
Austin also offered a tease about what we can expect from Dickel over the coming year. Two new bottled-in-bond blends are on the way, and one will be the oldest in the series to date (she tastes them blind, so this was not by design). Also, there will be a new Cascade Moon collaborative release with Todd Leopold of Colorado’s Leopold Bros., and it might incorporate some whiskey aged in refill barrels. In the meantime, you can find Dickel Bourbon Aged 18 Years available to purchase from Total Wine.
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New Port Richey Distillery to Release ‘Crossfire Hurricane’, The Rolling Stones Signature Rum
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Ronnie Wood, Mick Jagger and Keith Richards pose for a photocall at the Rolling Stones “Hackney Diamonds” Launch Event at Hackney Empire on September 06, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Jo Hale/Redferns)
NEW PORT RICHEY, Fla. – Turning out distinctive bottles of spirits is nothing new for Spencer Wolf and his team at The Point Distillery in New Port Richey. But, there’s some special rum waiting in the warehouse – 28,000 gallons for The Rolling Stones.
Within days, they’ll start bottling the new signature rum from the Stones called “Crossfire Hurricane.” The term refers to the lyrical place where Mick Jagger was born in the iconic song Jumpin’ Jack Flash.
Pictured: Prototype bottle.
This distillery was selected among many competitors anxious to bottle the rum. It became the drink of choice for the band when they spent time in the Caribbean, honing their music in their early days together.
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Wolf said unlike some other celebrities who just license their names, the Stones own the rum brand and have been intimately involved in the creation of both the rum and the distinctive bottle.
“Mick Jagger has been all over it to the finest detail,” said Wolf. “And they wanted a product that represented them.”
It’s easy to see.
“If you look at the back label, they’ve actually signed them,” said Wolf. “And here, the tongue is probably one of the most prominent logos in the world.”
READ: World’s most sought-after scotch whisky sets auction record at $2.7M
To coin some titles from the Stones, Wild Horses couldn’t drag Wolf away from the satisfaction he and his team feel.
“Oh, we were beyond ecstatic. This is the most famous iconic rock band in the world,” he said.
Wolf said making the intricate bottle for a local brand of bourbon, Von Payne, helped convince the Stones to bring it to Pasco County.
“And I think it was said ‘if you can do that bottle you can do ours,’” Wolf said.
Wolf, who is originally from Great Britain, said his accent may have played a small part in it.
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The Rolling Stones are scheduled to perform in Orlando on June 3. What are the chances they might come to New Port Richey to see their rum being bottled?
“Discretion stops me from answering that question, but would I be surprised if they show up to see their rum being manufactured? No,” he smiled.
Wolf said he expects to start bottling the rum in early December, and that it should be on store shelves around the beginning of the new year. He said it will have a retail price of around $37 a bottle.
“I think the Stones wanted it priced so that it could be accessible to a great number of their millions and millions of fans,” he said.
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Announcement: BBQ & Beer Bash Event Coming to Kalamazoo
The first BBQ and Beer Bash will be held at Homer Stryker Field in Kalamazoo on Feb. 17.Graphic provided by Outlier Events
KALAMAZOO, MI — The Kalamazoo Growlers and Outlier Events will host the first-ever Winter BBQ and Beer Bash at Homer Stryker Field on Saturday, Feb. 17.
The event will feature barbecue and beer tastings from local vendors, along with yard games, live music and non-alcoholic options indoors and on the field from 2 to 6 p.m., rain or shine.
All ages are welcome to attend, and children 12 and under receive free admission with a paid adult. Individual food and drink tokens can be purchased once inside the festival.
Attendees will receive sampling tokens with their tickets, a drink sampling cup and a branded lanyard, according to a press release. There are also a limited number of VIP tickets which grant one-hour early entry into the festival as well extra sampling tokens.
VIP tickets include six tokens for food and 10 for alcoholic beverages, while general admission tickets include four food tokens and six drink samples.
Those interested in VIP tickets can sign up now for the event’s priority list. Those on the list will be able to buy tickets beginning Dec. 14, while others will have to wait until Dec. 28. Ticket prices range from $34 to $59. There are specific tickets for those interested in just beer or just the barbecue.
Kalamazoo-based company Outlier Events has hosted other food and beer festivals in West Michigan and the Midwest, including the Donut & Beer Fest, Taco & Tequila Fest and Mac and Cheese Fest. According to a press release, Outlier Events hand-picked Kalamazoo to host the first BBQ and Beer Bash.
“We can’t wait to bring the first Winter BBQ and Beer Bash to Homer Stryker Field,” Outlier Events representative Kendall Soto said. “We have always had an amazing turnout in Kalamazoo, being where Outlier Events started.”
Though the vendor list is not yet finalized, Soto anticipates 40 to 60 vendors, including food trucks, restaurants and breweries. Interested vendors can contact admin@outliereventsgroup.com up to two weeks prior to the event.
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The Art of Beer Brewing: An Expert’s Insight into the Process
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We all have personal preferences. Take, for example, how someone likes their coffee. Some prefer it light while others crave it bold. Some want cream and others want it black.
Beer is no different. There are so many styles and types, according to Mitch Sokolis, brewmaster at Karbach Brewing, where there are more than 20 different offerings.
“Most beer can be differentiated by the ingredients used to make them,” he said. “There are countless varieties of malt, hops, yeast, fruit and spices.”
That leads us to our question: What exactly does it look like to brew a beer?
Sokolis said the process of brewing an assortment of styles can be different.
“Adding ingredients at different times in the brewing process can impart different flavors and aromas that is expected for a particular style,” he said. “For example, hops are added at the very beginning of the brewing process to make the beer bitter in flavor. Hops that are added later in the process (during or after fermentation) give a beer its hoppy aroma. This is called dry hopping and is what gives hoppy beers like IPAs their piney, citrusy or dank aromas. Our Hopadillo IPA is a great example of a beer that incorporates dry hopping.”
As far as what that looks like from beginning to end, he said, to start, the malt is milled and added to the mash tun with water. This mixture is called the mash.
“The temperature of the mash is set to a specific temperature to allow the enzymes naturally found in the malt to break down starches into sugar,” Sokolis said. “The mash is then transferred over to another vessel called the lauter tun, where it is rinsed to collect all the sugar that we call wort.”
Sokolis said the wort is boiled in a kettle and then pumped into a big cylindrical tank called the whirlpool, where the hop and protein are separated. The bittering hops are typically added during the boil.
The wort is then cooled off in a heat exchanger and dumped into a fermenter. The yeast and oxygen are added, and the fermentation process begins.
“We call the beer at this stage ‘green beer’ and give it a few weeks up to a few months in the tank,” Sokolis said. “We then send the beer to a holding tank called the brite tank through a centrifuge and filter to clarify the beer. The beer is carbonated and tasted in our sensory panel.”
Finally, this is when the beer is ready to be packaged.
“We run the beer through many different instruments throughout the entire process to make sure our beer is consistent and tasty,” Sokolis said.
When it comes to creating non-alcoholic beer, Sokolis said there are many ways it can be executed. He would know — Karbach has an award-winning non-alcoholic option.
“It’s one of the fastest growing styles, and lots of breweries are adding it to their lineup,” he said. “Some breweries have specialized equipment that can remove the alcohol from beer. However, we use a proprietary yeast strain that is specially made for non-alcoholic beer.”
Sokolis mentioned that the yeast strain used can ferment the beer just enough to impart a flavor that is expected in beer without adding too much alcohol — less than 0.5% ABV (alcohol by volume).
“We also have a few trade secrets that we utilize to make our beer taste like the real thing,” he declared. “For instance, our Free & Easy Belgian Style White won the gold medal at the Great American Beer Festival this year, an achievement we are very proud of.”
According to Sokolis, when they’re brewing seasonal beer, the primary difference lies in the ingredients and materials they procure.
“Karbachtoberfest, our Bavarian-style Marzen, is brewed once a year,” he continued. “It seems to be the favorite among the employees, and we pay special attention when brewing it. We invest in quality ingredients and allow it extra time in the cellar for conditioning.”
He said before it is packaged, the whole brewery is invited to what they call a “tank party,” where they drink straight from the tank.
“It’s always a special moment to enjoy this beer going into the tail end of a hot summer,” Sokolis said.
When asked what his opinion is on can beer versus keg, Sokolis said every type of container has its purpose.
“Assuming the beer is packaged correctly, they can both provide beer the way the brewery intended it,” he said.
Because kegs are reusable, Sokolis said it’s important to make sure they are cleaned properly before putting beer in them.
“Also, making sure they are poured through a well-maintained tap system will reduce the chance of dirty lines, which can affect the taste of the beer,” he said. “Cans are great for portability, such as sharing with friends at a party or sticking in your fridge or cooler.”
Sokolis clearly has a love for the brewing process and the result of it.
“Beer is an awesome thing. There are lots of passionate people who work in the brewing industry. It’s tough work, but a labor of love,” he said.
Sokolis mentioned that it’s quite usual to spot Karbach workers unwinding with their beers in the biergarten after an exhaustive day.
“They take pleasure in relishing the product they’ve diligently created”, he expressed. “Every person employed here is given the shot at brewing their personal beer using our exploration and enhancement unit, and it turned out to be phenomenal in nurturing the impressive culture we’ve established here.”
Interested to know more about Karbach Brewing? Want to discover about the over 20 varieties of beers concocted in house at Karbach? Click or tap here.
A Journey into the World of Armenian Wine
Vineyards on a fertile plain at the foot of Mount and volcano of Ararat and famous monastery of Khor Virap in the background at sunset.
This ancient winemaking country was never on my radar. Was it because few of the wines have historically been available in the U.S. or because the bulk of indigenous wine grapes are not familiar to us in the U.S.? It certainly also doesn’t help that the country has been buffeted by war on many sides for much of its long wine-making history.
Vineyards in Armenia
The wine grapes from the Caucasus, primarily Armenia and Georgia, never made the leap to Western Europe. As a result, most U.S. and European consumers don’t know much about them or how to pronounce them.
However, on my first trip to Armenia, I was impressed with the overall quality of the wines and the passion that local producers put into them. Sadly, very few of them are present on the U.S. market. Storica, the Boston-based importer who led this trip, is changing that up. As are international winemakers like Paul Hobbs, while collaborating on winemaking endeavors there; and the fact that the latest SOMM film, part of a series of four, is based on wine production in Armenia. The film was just released in the U.S. and I recently reviewed it.
This was also a particularly moving trip, which most wine country trips aren’t always, given the political situation in the country. Armenia has long had a tenuous relationship with neighboring Azerjaban and it is not getting any better. So, I felt that the producers really poured their heart and soul into hosting us there in more ways than one. I wonder how many American producers might have canceled tastings and winery visits if their homeland felt imperiled?
The Background
Ancient Storage Jar Found in Areni-1 Cave, World’s Earliest Known Winery in the Village of Areni, Archaeological site in Vayots Dzor Province of Armenia
Anyone interested in understanding Armenia should look at the country’s deep history of winemaking. The Areni-1Cave, the oldest known winery dating from over 6,000 years ago shows evidence of wine consumption dating back to 6000 B.C. The country’s primary Christian population has also ensured that wine has long been made for use in the church and at home.
There is also a deep-seated tradition of home winemaking all around the country—much like you see in Italy or any southern European country—which is testament to how much countryfolk like crafting what they grow in their yards in into a great dinner pairing. This is something we observed in abundance on this trip, at places like Yeganyan’s Gastroyard, an interactive culinary center where visitors can make lavash bread and traditional sweets (and enjoy them with BBQ at dinner right afterwards).
Churchkhela, Sweet sujukh – nuts covered with grape juice
The wine industry here is fueled by stalwarts who are reinventing the wheel, from within, and those who have come back from many years abroad. Vahe Keushguerian, the charming protagonist of SOMM4, vividly expresses why he headed home after years of living in Italy and the U.S. Paul Hobbs, the legendary California winemaker, who has put some new styles of Argentine Malbec on the map also became interested in producing wine this country in high-elevation vineyards with tons of sunshine. Hobbs has been making wine under theYacoubian-Hobbs label since 2014 and he has been producing wine in Sonoma since the early 2000s.
The Background on Hobbs
Paul Hobbs is a renowned California winemaker who boasts an extensive career, marked by exciting collaborations with producers in several countries. Among these are Argentina, Cahors in South France, and most recently, Armenia via his Yacoubian-Hobbs label venture over the past ten years.
In our brief exchange, he shared the origins of his collaboration with Armenia. Hobbs discussed his encounter with two Armenian brothers based in Los Angeles, who were fans of his California wines and acknowledged his key role in globalizing the Argentine wine industry. The brothers seriously proposed a venture to augment the global perception of their homeland’s wines and desired Hobbs’s assistance.
Hobbs shared that his early career experiences had strongly imprinted Armenia in his imagination, and with various factors aligning, he felt compelled to explore this opportunity. Once there, one core factor became pivotal – the terroir. If it elicited a positive response, exploration would intensify. If not, he would return home. He added that, logically, he also worked with a variety of famous European varietals to comprehend their adaptive response to this sector of the world’s unique terroir.
The Basics
Armenia has long been cut off from the international wine-producing world as it was part of the Soviet Union until 1991. As the Soviets did, with other neighboring countries like Moldova, the Armenians were told to focus on “Cognac,” and other fortified wines. This clearly is not even Cognac as it is made outside the French region of the name.
Rows of vineyards with Mount Ararat (5137 m) in the background, Armenia.
Areni is the country’s flagship red grape. What is more, many vineyards here are phylloxera-free and have been planted on their own roots: which is something you don’t see much in Europe except for small regions like Colares in Portugal.
A few of my favorites tasted on this trip included Noa Arkuri Noah Of Areni 2022, which had lovely stone fruit notes and flowers. The rosé sparkler from Kuesh is delightfully over the top with a fragrant aroma and hints of berries on the palate. It’s made by Keushguerian. Van Ardi is another notable producer with a nice estate. The winery’s 2022 Kangun—an indigenous white grape—had rich stone fruit notes, good acidity and notes of citrus and apricot skin on the finish.
Kebabs at Carousel.
Some of these unique varietals are picking up traction in U.S. restaurants, particularly where there is a large Armenian community in places like Glendale, in Los Angeles. Rosalie Tcholakian, an owner of the two-location Carousel restaurant shares that her dinners are growing more interested in Armenian wines. She adds that many non-Armenia customers are also showing up, so “Armenia is definitely on the map!”
The Unanimous Verdict: 3 Bartenders Agree on the Best Vodka for a Martini
Vodka, oh vodka. It’s one of those spirits that instantly brings a flavor memory to mind, whether it’s from souvenir shot glasses or a neutral vodka-soda. Meaning “little water” in Russian, vodka certainly gets a bad rap, and the same is sadly true of vodka martinis. But to that end I say, no more!
Even the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau, which previously stated that, technically speaking, vodka should be “without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color,” (ouch!) has gone back on its rulings. The bureau’s new amended definition gives vodka martini drinkers a lot more excitement to look forward to — and it shows.
Plenty of vodka brands are making far more complex martinis to enjoy and mix, according to bartenders. If you often opt for the more classic gin martini, it’s time to stir things up (literally, please don’t shake!) with a vodka martini.
What’s the Best Vodka for Martinis?
What’s the trick to picking the best vodka for a martini? Know your grains! Contrary to popular belief, most vodkas are not made with potatoes, but from grains like wheat, barley, rye, and corn. Depending on the grain, you’ll get a wide variation in texture, sweetness, and, yes, a little burn.
After interviewing numerous bartenders, it emerged that a common favorite grain for vodka bases was wheat. George Krpeyan, the general manager at The Grand Tier Restaurant at the Metropolitan Opera House in New York, mentioned his preference for vodka distilled from 100% wheat. This preference led him to frequently use Grey Goose, a wheat-based vodka, for his signature cocktails. Wheat vodka’s delicate sweetness and smoothness make it a perfect choice for mixing while rye-based and corn-based vodkas tend to deliver spicier or buttery tones.
Krpeyan isn’t the only one with a penchant for wheat-based vodkas. Simon Sebbah, the beverage director of Grand Tour Hospitality, also endorsed Grey Goose as his go-to vodka brand. Given that it’s a French product made from French winter wheat and mixed with demineralized spring water from Cognac, Grey Goose is appreciated for its crisp flavor, making it an excellent choice for spirit-forward cocktails like martinis.
Buy: Grey Goose Vodka, $27.59 for 750 mL at Drizly
Grey Goose isn’t the only vodka brand lauded for its crisp flavor profile. Other bartenders favored wheat-based vodkas such as Stoli Elite, Chopin, and Ketel One. These brands are renowned for their crisp, clean finish spiked with feathery whispers of citrus.
How to Make the Best Vodka Martini at Home
As a cocktail as simple as the martini, the quality of all your components is crucial. Your selection includes dry vermouth, your preferred vodka, and potentially some orange bitters or olive juice, all of which should be thoroughly chilled. If you have the time, freezing your glasses and stirring your martini will result in an ultra-silky, almost creamy cocktail.
Typical martini recipes will recommend a 2:1 or 3:1 vodka to vermouth ratio; mix for about 30 seconds in your mixing glass with a large ice cube, and then strain into your martini glass. Add a garnish such as a lemon twist, olives, or cocktail onions, and your cocktail is ready.
Although making martinis might seem daunting, there’s a method that simplifies the process whilst preserving a heavenly texture: make a large batch and store it in the freezer. “The freezer martini method enhances that texture,” asserts Pete Vasconcellos, beverage director for Albert’s Bar in New York. “Grab a one-liter glass bottle with a secure lid, determine your ideal martini ratio of vodka to vermouth and scale it up to 750 milliliters (to nearly fill the bottle). Multiply the total volume by 20% (150 milliliters) and add that amount of distilled water. Keep your martini batch in the glass bottle in the freezer. When you’re ready to enjoy, simply pour it into a chilled martini glass. There’s no need to stir!”
American Whiskey Industry on the Brink: The Threat of a 50% Tariff for U.S. Distillers
Expats yearning for a bit of the United States will likely not find it in bourbon or rye.
It seems that American whisky is facing a 50 percent tax when exported to Europe. This could potentially damage the industry of spirits in the US, The Wall Street Journal reported this past Monday. The tariff, anticipated to take effect next year, is the European Union’s reciprocal action to the US taxes on European steel and aluminum. Caught in the crossfire of this dispute are distilleries, even though their products are not directly involved.
Further reading from Robb Report
George Dickel’s Fresh 18-Year-Old Bourbon Is Its Most Aged Whisky Yet – We Got an Initial Taste
Taste Test: The Jim Beam Distillery Releases a Rye Worthy of the Top Shelf
This Underrated Scotch Distillery Just Dropped a Big, Bold Cask Strength Single Malt
“We’re just collateral damage,” Brooke Glover of West Virginia’s Swilled Dog distillery told the WSJ.
Back in 2018, then-President Donald Trump imposed the steel and aluminum tariffs, causing the EU to respond with its own taxes on iconic American goods, such as Levi’s jeans and Harley-Davidson motorcycles. Initially, American whiskey was taxed at 25 percent, with the tariff suspended a couple of years ago thanks to an agreement between the U.S. and the EU. The tax is supposed to go back into effect in 2024, though, doubled to a whopping 50 percent.
The U.S. is attempting to once again postpone the tariff with a further two-year extension according to sources to The Journal. However, agreement has yet to be reached, thereby placing distilleries in a predicament.
Jeff Quint, the CEO of Iowa’s Cedar Ridge Distillery, express to the newspaper, “With the significant likelihood of the tariffs making a return, it’s truly a deterrent to wanting to invest in these foreign markets. Without assurance that these tariffs have been abolished, no one will substantially invest in promoting bourbon worldwide.”
Since the initial implementation of the tariffs, some distilleries have chosen not to ship their goods to Europe. Confronted with a 25 percent tax, EU exports plummeted 20 percent, down from $552 million to $440 million. However, since its suspension, exports have soared beyond pre-tariff levels according to data from the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States presented to WSJ.
However, if the 50 percent tariff is levied in the new year, this trend is unlikely to continue. As the President of DISCUS, Chris Swonger, informed the media outlet, it “would be a total disaster for the American whiskey business.”
It would also be a disaster for Europeans who love American whiskey.
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